25 Things to Check Before Buying a Second-Hand Car
A 25-point used car inspection checklist covering the exterior, interior, engine, gearbox, tyres, brakes, suspension, electrics, service records and documents.
By Rathika Editorial Team · Published · Last reviewed · 5 min read
A careful inspection takes about an hour and can save you from a car that will cost far more than it is worth. This checklist has 25 checks, grouped by area. You do not need to be a mechanic to do most of them: you need daylight, a dry spot, a torch and patience. For the parts that need a professional, the last section explains when to pay for an inspection. You can also tick these off on your phone with our free inspection checklist tool.
Before you start: look at the car in daylight, on dry ground, with the engine cold. A car that has been warmed up before you arrive can hide starting problems and noises.
Exterior (checks 1 to 6)
- Panel gaps and alignment. Look along each side of the car. Gaps between doors, bonnet, boot and wings should be even. Uneven gaps can mean a past accident.
- Paint colour and finish. Mismatched shades, rough patches or paint on rubber seals and trim suggest repainting after damage. Check in direct daylight.
- Rust. Look at wheel arches, door bottoms, the boot floor lip and under the sills. Kolkata's humidity is hard on bare metal. Surface rust on a bolt is normal; bubbling paint or holes are not.
- Glass and lamps. Chips or cracks in the windscreen, and moisture or a water line inside headlamps or tail lamps, which can indicate water ingress.
- Tyres. Check tread depth, uneven wear across the tyre and the date code (four digits, week and year). Tyres more than about five or six years old may need replacing even if the tread looks fine.
- Underneath. Look for fresh oil, coolant or fluid drips, damaged or bent parts and recent welding. A torch and a short look under the car helps.
Interior (checks 7 to 11)
- Smell and damp. A musty smell, damp carpets or silt under the seats and in the boot are warning signs of flood damage. Lift the mats and look.
- Seats and trim. Heavy wear that does not match the odometer reading is a flag. Check seat rails for rust.
- Switches and controls. Operate every window, central locking, mirrors, wipers, horn, indicators and lights.
- Air-conditioning. Run it on the coldest setting for several minutes. It should blow cold quickly and not smell sour. A weak AC can be an expensive repair.
- Dashboard and warning lights. All lights should come on when you turn the key and go off after the engine starts. A light that never comes on may have been disabled.
Engine (checks 12 to 15)
- Cold start. The engine should start easily and settle into a steady idle. Rough starting, rattles or a cloud of smoke deserve questions.
- Fluids. Check the engine oil (colour and level), coolant (clear, not rusty or oily) and brake fluid. Milky oil is a serious warning sign.
- Belts, hoses and battery. Look for cracks and leaks. Check the battery terminals for corrosion and the manufacture date on the battery.
- Exhaust. Blue smoke suggests burning oil, white smoke that does not clear can mean coolant is being burned, and black smoke suggests a rich mixture or a fuel-system problem.
Transmission, brakes and suspension (checks 16 to 20)
- Clutch (manual). The pedal should bite at a sensible height and the car should pull away smoothly. A clutch that bites very high or slips is worn.
- Gearbox. Gears should engage without crunching or whining. In an automatic, shifts should be smooth with no flare or harsh jolts.
- Brakes. The car should stop in a straight line. Pulsing through the pedal, a pull to one side or grinding noises mean work is needed.
- Steering. There should be little free play and the car should track straight on a flat road with light hands on the wheel.
- Suspension. Press down firmly on each corner: the car should rise once and settle. Listen for knocks over bumps and speed breakers.
Records and paperwork (checks 21 to 25)
- Service history. Ask for the service book and invoices. Regular servicing at sensible intervals matters more than the number of stamps.
- Odometer against wear. Compare the reading with the wear on the pedals, steering wheel and seat. Be cautious if they do not agree.
- Registration certificate. The RC must be original, the owner's name must match the seller's identity, and the engine and chassis numbers must match the car.
- Insurance and PUC. Check that both are valid and note the dates. Ask about any insurance claims made.
- Loan and hypothecation. If the car was financed, ask for the loan-closure proof and make sure the lender's name is removed from the RC. Our guide to checking RC, insurance and ownership documents explains how.
Scoring what you find
| What you found | What to do |
|---|---|
| Everything fine, minor wear | Proceed and use small faults to negotiate |
| A few repairable faults | Get a quote, deduct it from your offer |
| Signs of flood damage, major accident repair, tampered odometer or unclear ownership | Walk away |
| Anything you cannot assess | Ask for a professional inspection before you pay |
When to pay for a professional inspection
A professional can check what you cannot see: computer fault codes, compression, hidden structural damage, paint thickness and the condition of the underside on a lift. It is worth it for newer or more expensive cars and whenever you are unsure. Rathika's vehicle inspection service is available in Kolkata and nearby areas, and the report is reviewed before it is published.
After the inspection, take the car on a proper test drive and then follow the steps in our complete buyer's guide. When you are ready, browse used cars in Kolkata.